Once you’ve received your cedar siding shipment and are prepared for installation, use the following guidelines to assist you:

• Set the cedar siding stock out with spacers between the rows to allow any excess moisture to escape. Note: Each siding board is kiln dried to a maximum of 19%

• Avoid direct ground contact to make sure that your cedar siding is not exposed to further moisture. Clearance off of the ground should be 6”-12” minimum

• Seek out information on the best combination of primer and finishing coat for your cedar siding – this will help you to get better results in protecting your cedar siding against mildew and other moisture-related issues

• Research and invest in the best fasteners which will not rust and are corrosion-resistant. The best fasteners for cedar siding are hot-dipped galvanized nails, stainless steel nails, or aluminum nails. Avoid common nails or copper fasteners, as both of these are prone to “bleeding” or discoloration. Use nails with a thin shank and blunt points which will help reduce the likelihood of fiber splitting.

• When nailing your cedar siding, it is best to fasten at each stud or furring strip with a 1 ½” penetration into the solid wood . If the siding is ¾” then the nail length will be approximately 2 ¼” to 2 ½”. Do not nail overlapping boards together, this inhibits the expansion and contraction of the wood and can cause splitting.

• Think about ways to minimize moisture. Use caulking to seal any gaps and joints at doors, windows, corners, etc. Avoid pure silicon compounds when choosing your caulking. Make use of flashing to keep moisture from entering walls at their most vulnerable points – borders, internal corners, around windows, etc. Ensure that you have incorporated an internal vapor barrier and “breatheable” exterior building paper into any construction plans. This will allow any moisture to escape properly

General procedure

Bevel cedar siding can be put over wall sheathing or furring strips applied vertically. This is usually over the studding itself for the purposes of a solid base. For bevel cedar siding: Starting at the bottom, use a furring strip for the base. Each successive row of cedar siding will have at least a minimum overlap of 1” for the 1x6 and 1 1/8” overlap for the 1x8 bevels. The nails should be placed above the overlap to avoid nailing two boards at once. If you have a long wall, stagger the butt joints but fit the ends together with caulking as needed.

Vertical channel cedar siding can be applied over sheathing or horizontal furring strips. The wall installation requires the use of moisture wrap, wall sheathing etc. Corners can be done two ways:

1. with mitered 45’ cuts for inside or outside corners, or
2. use boards to define the corners.

With bevel cedar siding, the use of vertical boards avoids the mitered cuts which can prove difficult to match. For channel cedar siding, a ripped board can be the corner board and will fit into the general appearance.

Remember: Before commencing any cedar siding project, consult your own research and information about building code regulations in your area.